Hi guys,

Since yesterday my 7A all of a sudden has no spark. The car did not start after driving it an hour before. Then it did start again a bit later and drove fine. But now it does not start again and there is no spark.

It also seems like the injectors are not firing.

I've checked pretty much everything and now suspect the sensors at the flywheel => Geber für Zündzeitpunkt + Drehzahlgeber.

Do these indeed go bad / break sometimes? Has anyone experienced this?


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Zitat von bullmoose

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Hi guys,

Since yesterday my 7A all of a sudden has no spark. The car did not start after driving it an hour before. Then it did start again a bit later and drove fine. But now it does not start again and there is no spark.

It also seems like the injectors are not firing.

I've checked pretty much everything and now suspect the sensors at the flywheel => Geber für Zündzeitpunkt + Drehzahlgeber.

Do these indeed go bad / break sometimes? Has anyone experienced this?

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Seems like there is a problem with the crankshaft sensor... maybe problem with the cable or something like that.

I just want to know if these indeed go bad sometimes.

I cleaned the sensors yesterday and got spark again a few times but then it died again. I will order two new sensors, they're not too expensive anyway. Will let you know if it solves the problem.

I changed the crank sensors but this did not solve the problem.

I checked the hall sensor on the distributor and it seems to work fine.

What is really strange is that every now and then it will spark for a few seconds then it stops again. Also, when there is no spark then the injectors are also not firing.

What else to check? Do the 7A ECU's ever go bad??

I would like to pull the fault codes from the ECU, but the wiring loom that came with my engine no longer had the connectors for the diagnostics on it....

Is it possible to do this directly from the ECU connectors? If yes, which pins to use? I have the newer ECU with the four separate connectors.

I'm puzzled a bit..

As I understand this is the procedure for getting the blink codes:



But according to SJM (see below image) I need to also use the blue connector that you refer to as well.

If this is correct then:

A.
The light connects between the + on the black connector and C14 on the blue connector.

B.
The jumper wire connects to the ground (-) and C13 on the brown connector.

Did I get that correct?



Sorry for all the questions but as I no longer have the brown, blue and black plugs on my harness I have to do this directly from the ECU and I need to make sure I get the right pins

Thanks!

By the way, today I got the car started again. I have no idea what I have changed to get it running again though.

It is a it difficult to start but when it runs it runs fine

Okay I was able to pull the codes:

2-1-1-4 => Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.

What is strange:

a. the car will sometimes start and when it runs it runs as normal
b. I have not changed the distributor position

Any ideas? I was thinking about the timing belt but again, when the car runs it runs fine!

OK I got it

Don't ask me how it is possible but the code was right, I repositioned the distributor and everything is back in working order.

I won this one

Thanks all for your input.

Well as of today the same symptoms and again the same code 2-1-1-4 => Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.

I have checked the timing of the crank to cam and timing belt and these are in order. The sensors are also good (have been recently replaced although the old sensors aparently were not the problem.

Any other ideas? Is my hall sensor going bad? Any other issues that can lead to the code I am getting?

Cheers,
Reinier

I have checked the hall sensor with an LED and it seems fine. Guess I have to find the problem elsewhere...